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Kayaking Bioluminescence

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Did You See Those Dinoflagellates?

This Halloween, I had a nice night of kayaking on Tomales Bay in search of bioluminescence. The conditions were nearly perfect.

Bioluminescence is to California as the Aurora Borealis is to the Arctic—an ephemeral natural display that’s positively mesmerizing.
These events occur when single-celled organisms, known as dinoflagellates, suddenly emit a glow after being disturbed or agitated. It doesn’t take much. Predators, or even wave action, can stimulate the release of light in these tiny organisms, which grow and accumulate during red tides, an algal bloom that is noticeable by day as a reddish or brownish cast in the water.

https://www.visitcalifornia.com/experience/heres-how-experience-bioluminescence-california/

kayaking North Bay

Conditions Needed to see bioluminescence:

  • Cloudy, overcast sky – to dampen light from the moon and stars.
  • New Moon or skinny crescent moon – less light.
  • Preferably not too cold.
  • October – best season to see it

I parked at Miller Park and used the Miller Boat Launch on the East side of Tomales Bay, 13 miles North of Point Reyes Station, next to Nick’s Cove. I started in daylight, around 6:00 PM and headed towards Hog Island. I knew from a previous kayak tour with Clavey Paddlesports that the darkest area was the other side of Hog Island. I paddled around Hog Island, trying to get close enough to see the harbor seals, pelicans, cormorants and other birds that hang out there. It’s a noisy and smelly place with a row of tall eucalyptus trees, but it’s the best place to see wildlife. They’re not happy to see me, so I didn’t want to get too close.

kayaking Tomales Bay

I went alone – not advisable. Fortunately, I was not alone. There was a large group led by Blue Water kayaking. I launched ahead of them but stayed within earshot of them and paddled back to the east shore beside them.

kayaking North Bay

I found what I was looking for in two places: at the mouth of White Gulch and at Wall Beach. Hog Island and my boat shielded some of the light coming from Nick’s Cove and other buildings in the area. I headed for Wall Beach and then White Gulch where I sat still, waiting for dark and enjoying the absolute sounds of the bay, minus any noise from civilization. As it got darker, I paddled around White Gulch in search of light from the water. As I paddled blueish-white sparks appeared. As it got darker, around 8:00 PM, the path of my oar lit up with a cloud of tiny sparks. It was magical. I ran my oar back and forth like a kid splashing in the bathtub.

Wall Beach is where the Blue Water group ended up. I had White Gulch mostly to myself, except for a large sailboat that was anchored in the middle of the small bay. Conditions were ideal until an unwelcome, bright light appeared from the West, maybe a satellite? It was moving very slowly westward, but never completely disappeared.

kayaking Tomales Bay

As mentioned, the conditions were nearly perfect. There was more light in the sky than ideal and the satellite above White Gulch was a buzz kill. It would be awesome if PG&E would cut power to Nick’s Cove and the area for about 30 minutes. Blame it on fires or storms or whatever.
This is not Borealis, but if you like kayaking and getting out in Creation, you’ve got to try this. Try it a few times. You might paddle into a light show you’ll never forget that most people never experience.

paddling Tomales Bay

For first-timers, it’s best to go with a group, such as Clavey Paddlesports or Blue Water Kayaking. Both offer a few guided bioluminescence tours using tandem kayaks every October. Don’t forget a headlamp to signal your location to others and occasionally see where you’re going. I forgot mine. Forget taking pictures, unless you have good equipment and know how to capture the dim lights in the water. No picture captures the experience. I had my phone, which uses Verizon’s network. I had some phone/text coverage near Hog Island (no wonder all the seals and birds hang out there!) but nothing anywhere else.

It was a lovely night. Beautiful sights and sounds. Not a trick-or-treater in sight and I got five miles of paddling exercise.

Read more – find a tour

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